I often have clients getting confused by hairdressing jargon and cutting techniques especially in the area of hair design – line, graduation and layering where the latter become the most confusing.
So in the following paragraphs I will explain the differences and when to use them.
Line: directs attention to complementary facial features (cheek bone, lips, jawline, eyes) and divides or frames an area of the face and neck. A bow shaped fringe lifting higher towards the temples will bring attention to the eyes and open up the cheekbones.
Graduation: builds up recessed areas of the bone structure and the face shape, creating width and or volume to narrow or flatten heads. This form of cutting hair, I believe, is great for fine hair because you are stacking the hair; nape to crown-shorter to longer creating volume. Short to mid length shapes work best with this technique.
Layers: can soften angular areas of the face shape and complement weaker neck lines. In addition they can flatten bulbous areas of the head shape. Layers are particularly good for removing excess length and weight while imparting various degrees of texture. This can either be soft and feather like or chunky and disheveled. Layers work well on many lengths and shapes.